EarthWalkers

ArtCenter College of Design
Semester 5

2 Week Project

SOFT GOODS MANUFACTURING

This 2 week intensive programs objective was the design and manufacturing of a pair of sneakers and a tote bag, from patternmaking and material selection, to sewing and lasting.

OVERVIEW

During this 2 week intensive program I had the great opportunity to learn first hand the manufacturing process of bags and shoes, primarily in the use of leather in Lalaland design factory in Downtown Los Angeles.

I came in knowing only the basics of sewing and left feeling comfortable to create more soft good products.

STARTING POINT

We were provided a midsole and a last, which meant we designed the upper of the shoe revolving around the midsole.

TAPE DRAWING

After the ideation process I made a tape drawing showing the final design direction.

At this stage it was very important to consider a variety of proportions and biomechanics of the foot such as heel and ankle collar height, how far the lacing went down to, as well as consider and indicate where stitching would be placed.

I then carefully cut the tape drawing from the last and laid it flat on a sheet of cardstock, which I would use as a guide to cut out the material.

This also allowed me to obtain a separate template for each individual part that would be layered in the shoe

CUTTING

I cut out each piece individually with the material I wanted to use for each one as well as an extra piece of microfiber laminate to back it up and give it support.

I attached this microfiber laminate through a heat press process.

Having all the pieces ready I arranged them and measured them in place marking where they should go with a heat erasable pen.

This allowed me to move faster through the stitching process.

SEWING

During the manufacturing process of both the shoe and the tote bag ,I got to experiment and learn with a variety of sewing machines. This was a great learning opportunity to be able to understand hands on the limitations and possibilities of different sewing machines, from table sewing machines for flat patterns and vertical post machines for curves and complex surfaces such as closing the back of the shoe.

LASTING

With the guidance of a long-time shoemaker I hand lasted my shoes using nails to secure upper to the insole and the glued and sanded the bottom to cement into the outsole.

PRESENTATION

Once the program came to an end I had the opportunity to present my work to my classmates and guest teachers, showing my thought process and how that lead to several decisions such as material choices and design.

To make the product more presentable I quickly mocked up a shoe box and tags to go both with the tote bag and the sneakers.

Months after making this shoes, they remain one of my favorite pairs to wear, not only because of the sentimental value but also because I was able to achieve my design vision of a shoe I would love to have. They also turned out surprisingly comfortable, thus I am able to wear them for long periods of time, just like I would any other shoe.